NoisesUrgency: Garage soon
Noise when accelerating: causes and the faults that trigger it
A noise when accelerating rarely has a single cause. The sources consulted point mainly to the exhaust system, the dual-mass flywheel, the engine mounts, the CV joints and the turbo or its hoses, and the type of sound (whistle, roar, rattle, metallic knock) and when it occurs are clues, not a diagnosis. A metallic noise heard when accelerating should not be ignored: have a garage check it.[1][2][3][4][5][6][7]
15 documented faults cause it in 15 engines. The most important:
- Critical severity: MHSG belt tensioner and crankshaft pulley failure (48V mild hybrid) · 1.6 CRDi
- Critical severity: Wear of the variator chain and cones · Multitronic
- High severity: Turbo failure through lack of lubrication (carbon deposits and union filter) · 1.6 HDi
What it means
A noise that appears or changes when you press the accelerator can come from the exhaust, the dual-mass flywheel, the engine mounts, the driveshafts or the turbo. The type of sound (whistle, roar, rattle, metallic knock) and when it appears point towards the cause, but do not confirm it.
General explanation from MotorFiable. How it shows up in each engine, with sources, is in the list of faults.
What to do now
Garage soon
Note when it happens (engine cold or warm, at what speed, in a straight line or turning) and do not ignore it: ask for an inspection at a garage before the noise gets worse.
Most common causes
From most to least likely according to the sources. Under each cause, the part and the related OBD codes.
1. Exhaust leak or damage
Common causeAutodoc Club lists among the signs of a faulty exhaust an engine roar that changes pitch when accelerating and a rattling under the car, and warns that if the floor of the cabin gets hot, the heat shields have burnt away. A leak at the manifold makes the engine sound considerably louder and, with a cold engine, can produce a "tick"; a damaged flexible pipe or silencer can cause whistling.[1][2][8]
2. Worn dual-mass flywheel
Common causeRACE includes among the symptoms of a worn dual-mass flywheel knocks when starting or switching off the engine and abnormal vibrations or noises at idle or while driving. Autofácil explains that when it is badly deteriorated, the metallic noise can be heard when accelerating, and that the fault is then serious: there have been cases where it has broken and damaged the gearbox housing.[3][4][9]
Faults with with the dual-mass flywheelFaults with with the clutch
3. Worn engine mounts
Possible causeWith worn engine mounts, Diariomotor describes engine vibrations being felt more inside the car and the engine visibly moving when you lift off the accelerator. Autodoc Club lists vibration accompanied by noise among the signs of worn mounts or a faulty spark plug.[1][5]
4. Worn CV joint
Possible causeRACE links to CV joints a shudder felt through the floor, the seat or the gear lever, especially when accelerating hard or going over 80 km/h, and a "clack-clack" heard with the steering on full lock at low speed. Grease thrown out by the wheel gives away a split boot.[6]
5. Faulty turbo or leaking hose
Possible causeAutodoc Club points out that a slight whistle when accelerating can be normal in a turbocharged car, but one that is too loud can indicate a leak in a hose. RACE includes whistling from the engine area, together with loss of power, among the symptoms of a broken or faulty turbo.[1][7]
6. Engine knock (detonation)
Possible causeAutodoc Club attributes a loud metallic noise in a relatively new engine to detonation caused by low-octane fuel. Its article on the knock sensor lists knocking when accelerating, pinging, loss of power and the engine warning light among the symptoms of a failing sensor.[1][10]
7. Stretched timing chain or internal engine wear
UncommonAutodoc Club associates a rattle with a stretched timing chain, a ticking with a cold engine with a valve fault, and uneven knocks from the sump area with the crankshaft bearings. Its recommendation is not to ignore these noises, to have the car checked and to repair the affected component.[1]
Faults with with the timing chainFaults with with the big-end bearings and pistons
Depending on what you notice
Noise when accelerating at low revs
None of the sources consulted links the noise to a specific engine speed, so on its own it does not allow causes to be ruled out. Among the most frequently cited causes of noises and vibrations at idle or while driving are the dual-mass flywheel (RACE) and the engine mounts (Diariomotor, which describes an engine visibly moving when you lift off the accelerator). If the metallic noise is already audible when accelerating, Autofácil considers it a sign of a badly deteriorated dual-mass flywheel.[3][4][5]
Metallic noise when accelerating
Autodoc Club distinguishes several metallic noises: a rattle from a stretched timing chain, uneven knocks from the crankshaft bearings and, in a relatively new engine, a loud noise that may be detonation from low-octane fuel. Autofácil adds that a metallic noise heard when accelerating is a sign of a badly deteriorated dual-mass flywheel. In every case Autodoc recommends not ignoring it.[1][4]
Noise when accelerating while driving
If the shudder appears when accelerating hard or past around 80 km/h, RACE links it to the CV joints and warns that if one seizes at high speed, there can be a critical loss of control. A roar that changes pitch when accelerating points, according to Autodoc Club, to the exhaust; a whistle, to the turbo or a hose.[1][2][6]
Noisy at idle and goes away when accelerating
None of the sources consulted explains why an idle noise disappears as the revs rise, so there is no direct diagnosis. Diariomotor suggests pressing the clutch pedal with the car idling: if the vibration reduces or disappears, it points to a worn dual-mass flywheel. Autodoc Club also lists noises that only occur with a cold engine (a ticking from the valves or the "tick" of a manifold leak), so it is worth noting whether it depends on temperature too.[1][8][9]
What to check first
- Pay attention to how it sounds (whistle, roar that changes pitch, rattle, metallic knock, shudder) and when it appears: with the engine cold or warm, at idle, when accelerating hard, above a certain speed or with the steering on full lock. Autodoc Club recommends not ignoring these noises and having the car checked.[1][2][6]
- With the car idling, press the clutch pedal: according to Diariomotor, if the vibrations reduce or disappear, the dual-mass flywheel is worn. RACE warns that the symptoms alone do not confirm it, because they can also come from the clutch, the engine or gearbox mounts, the injection or the ignition.[3][9]
- Have the exhaust inspected over a pit or on a lift: firm mountings, damp patches on the silencer and, if the floor of the cabin gets hot, burnt heat shields.[2]
- Look around the wheels: grease thrown outwards indicates that a CV joint boot has split.[6]
- If the loud metallic noise appears in a relatively new engine, think back to what fuel you have put in: Autodoc Club associates it with detonation from low-octane fuel. If the engine warning light also comes on, ask for a fault code read-out.[1][10]
Can I keep driving?
Urgency: Garage soon
It depends on the noise. A soft whistle when accelerating can be normal in a turbocharged car, but Autodoc Club recommends not ignoring noises, having the car checked and repairing the affected component. Autofácil considers a metallic noise heard when accelerating serious, because of a badly deteriorated dual-mass flywheel that can end up breaking the gearbox housing; RACE warns that driving without a turbo is dangerous and that a CV joint that seizes at high speed can cause a loss of control. If the noise gets worse, the sensible course is not to prolong the journey and to take the car to a garage.[1][4][6][7]
How much it costs to fix
Indicative prices published by the sources cited; they depend on the car and the garage.
| Repair | Price |
|---|---|
| Replacing the dual-mass flywheel at an independent garage (according to Diariomotor, 2020; the garage usually bills a minimum of six or eight hours of labour)[9] | €700 – €1,300 |
| Repairing the dual-mass flywheel depending on the model (removal, refitting and part, according to Autofácil; RACE cites around €1,500 for a complete clutch kit with flywheel, disc, release bearing, slave cylinder, labour and VAT on an average compact car)[3][4] | €1,000 – €2,000 |
| Replacing a CV joint boot (per wheel, including labour, according to RACE)[6] | €60 – €120 |
| Replacing the CV joint kit (average garage price, according to RACE, labour not detailed)[6] | €150 – €300 |
| Replacing the complete driveshaft (indicative quote from RACE, labour not detailed)[6] | €350 – €700 |
| Repairing a turbo (around €500) or replacing it with a new one (around €1,500), according to RACE; it does not state whether labour is included[7] | €500 – €1,500 |
| Replacing an engine mount at a garage (around 3-4 hours of work; Autodoc Club cites around €300)[1] | €300 |
Documented faults that cause it
Specific engine and gearbox faults, from most to least important (severity × frequency). Below each title, how the symptom shows up in that fault.
Source for the symptom in the 1.6 CRDi[11]
Source for the symptom in the Multitronic[12]
Source for the symptom in the 1.6 HDi[13]
Source for the symptom in the 2.0 HDi[14]
Source for the symptom in the 1.4 T-Jet[15]
Source for the symptom in the Skyactiv-D[16]
Source for the symptom in the 1.6 EcoBoost[17]
Source for the symptom in the 1.1 and 1.4 CRDi[18]
Source for the symptom in the MZR-CD[19]
Source for the symptom in the 1.4 Turbo[20]
Source for the symptom in the 2.0 DTI and 2.2 DTI[21]
Source for the symptom in the 2.2 HDi[22]
Source for the symptom in the 1.8 TDCi[23]
Source for the symptom in the DSG7 DQ381/DQ500[24]
Source for the symptom in the VW 2.0 TFSI EA113[25]
Faults elsewhere in the car that cause it
Suspension, brake, electronics and other faults on specific cars, from most to least important.
Which cars it appears in
These faults affect 15 engines. We have documented 119 models from 19 makes with some of the affected versions: open yours to see all its faults.
Engines
- 1.6 CRDiHyundai and Kia1 fault with this symptom
- MultitronicAudi and Seat1 fault with this symptom
- 1.6 HDiPeugeot, Citroën, DS, Ford, Volvo, Mazda, MINI, Opel and Toyota1 fault with this symptom
- 2.0 HDiPeugeot, Citroën, Ford, Volvo and Toyota1 fault with this symptom
- 1.4 T-JetFiat, Abarth, Alfa Romeo, Lancia and Jeep1 fault with this symptom
- Skyactiv-DMazda1 fault with this symptom
- 1.6 EcoBoostFord and Volvo1 fault with this symptom
- 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiHyundai and Kia1 fault with this symptom
- MZR-CDMazda1 fault with this symptom
- 1.4 TurboOpel and Vauxhall1 fault with this symptom
- 2.0 DTI and 2.2 DTIOpel and Vauxhall1 fault with this symptom
- 2.2 HDiPeugeot, Citroën, Ford and Land Rover1 fault with this symptom
- 1.8 TDCiFord1 fault with this symptom
- DSG7 DQ381/DQ500Volkswagen, Seat and Škoda1 fault with this symptom
- VW 2.0 TFSI EA113Volkswagen, Audi, SEAT and Škoda1 fault with this symptom
Cars with the affected versions
Alfa Romeo
Audi
- Audi A3 IIEngine: VW 2.0 TFSI EA113Years: 2004–2012
- Audi A4 B6Engine: MultitronicYears: 2000–2004
- Audi A4 B7Engines: Multitronic · VW 2.0 TFSI EA113Years: 2004–2007
- Audi A4 B8Engine: MultitronicYears: 2007–2011
- Audi A5 IEngine: MultitronicYears: 2007–2014
- Audi A6 C5Engine: MultitronicYears: 1999–2004
- Audi A6 C6Engine: MultitronicYears: 2004–2011
- Audi A6 C7Engine: MultitronicYears: 2011–2014
Citroën
- Citroën Berlingo IIEngines: 1.6 HDi · 2.0 HDiYears: 2008–2018
- Citroën C-CrosserEngine: 2.2 HDiYears: 2006–2012
- Citroën C3 IEngine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2005–2009
- Citroën C3 IIEngine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2009–2016
- Citroën C3 PicassoEngine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2009–2017
- Citroën C4 IEngine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2004–2010
- Citroën C4 Picasso IEngines: 1.6 HDi · 2.0 HDiYears: 2006–2013
- Citroën C5 IEngine: 2.2 HDiYears: 2001–2007
Fiat
Ford
- Ford C-Max IEngines: 1.6 HDi · 1.8 TDCiYears: 2003–2010
- Ford C-Max IIEngines: 2.0 HDi · 1.6 EcoBoostYears: 2010–2019
- Ford Fiesta VIIEngine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2008–2017
- Ford Focus IEngine: 1.8 TDCiYears: 2001–2004
- Ford Focus IIEngines: 1.6 HDi · 1.8 TDCiYears: 2004–2011
- Ford Focus IIIEngines: 2.0 HDi · 1.6 EcoBoostYears: 2011–2018
- Ford Galaxy IIEngines: 1.6 EcoBoost · 1.8 TDCiYears: 2006–2015
- Ford Kuga IIEngine: 1.6 EcoBoostYears: 2012–2019
Hyundai
- Hyundai i20 IEngine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2008–2014
- Hyundai i20 IIEngine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2014–2018
- Hyundai i30 IIEngine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2012–2017
- Hyundai i30 IIIEngine: 1.6 CRDiYears: since 2017
- Hyundai ix20Engine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2010–2019
- Hyundai Kona IEngine: 1.6 CRDiYears: 2018–2022
- Hyundai Tucson IVEngine: 1.6 CRDiYears: since 2019
Kia
- Kia Ceed IIEngine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2012–2018
- Kia Ceed IIIEngine: 1.6 CRDiYears: since 2018
- Kia Rio IIIEngine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2011–2017
- Kia Rio IVEngine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2017–2019
- Kia Sportage VEngine: 1.6 CRDiYears: since 2022
- Kia VengaEngine: 1.1 and 1.4 CRDiYears: 2010–2018
- Kia XCeedEngine: 1.6 CRDiYears: since 2019
Land Rover
Mazda
- Mazda 3 IEngines: 1.6 HDi · MZR-CDYears: 2003–2009
- Mazda 3 IIEngine: MZR-CDYears: 2009–2013
- Mazda 3 IIIEngine: Skyactiv-DYears: 2013–2019
- Mazda 5 IEngine: MZR-CDYears: 2005–2010
- Mazda 6 IEngine: MZR-CDYears: 2002–2007
- Mazda 6 IIEngine: MZR-CDYears: 2007–2012
- Mazda 6 IIIEngine: Skyactiv-DYears: 2012–2023
- Mazda CX-3Engine: Skyactiv-DYears: 2016–2021
Opel
- Opel AdamEngine: 1.4 TurboYears: 2012–2019
- Opel Astra GEngine: 2.0 DTI and 2.2 DTIYears: 1999–2004
- Opel Astra JEngine: 1.4 TurboYears: 2009–2015
- Opel CascadaEngine: 1.4 TurboYears: 2013–2019
- Opel Corsa DEngine: 1.4 TurboYears: 2012–2014
- Opel Corsa EEngine: 1.4 TurboYears: 2014–2018
- Opel Insignia AEngine: 1.4 TurboYears: 2011–2013
- Opel Meriva BEngine: 1.4 TurboYears: 2010–2017
Peugeot
- Peugeot 206Engine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2004–2009
- Peugeot 207Engine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2006–2014
- Peugeot 307Engines: 1.6 HDi · 2.0 HDiYears: 2001–2008
- Peugeot 308 IEngines: 1.6 HDi · 2.0 HDiYears: 2007–2013
- Peugeot 407Engines: 1.6 HDi · 2.0 HDi · 2.2 HDiYears: 2004–2011
- Peugeot 607Engine: 2.2 HDiYears: 1999–2010
- Peugeot 807Engine: 2.2 HDiYears: 2002–2010
- Peugeot 3008 IEngine: 1.6 HDiYears: 2009–2016
Seat
Škoda
Volkswagen
- Volkswagen ArteonEngine: DSG7 DQ381/DQ500Years: 2017–2023
- Volkswagen Golf VEngine: VW 2.0 TFSI EA113Years: 2004–2008
- Volkswagen Golf VIIEngine: DSG7 DQ381/DQ500Years: 2017–2020
- Volkswagen Golf VIIIEngine: DSG7 DQ381/DQ500Years: since 2019
- Volkswagen Jetta VEngine: VW 2.0 TFSI EA113Years: 2005–2010
- Volkswagen Passat B6Engine: VW 2.0 TFSI EA113Years: 2005–2010
- Volkswagen Passat B8Engine: DSG7 DQ381/DQ500Years: 2017–2023
- Volkswagen Tiguan IIEngine: DSG7 DQ381/DQ500Years: 2016–2024
Noise when accelerating: causes in your car
121 cars have several documented faults that cause this symptom. Choose yours to see only those that affect it, by engine and by year.
Abarth 2
Alfa Romeo 2
Citroën 12
Ford 12
Hyundai 7
Lancia 1
Mazda 11
Mercedes-Benz 1
MINI 1
Opel 15
Peugeot 11
Volkswagen 10
Noise when accelerating by brand
Frequently asked questions
Is it normal for the car to whistle when accelerating?
A slight whistle when accelerating can be normal in a turbocharged car, according to Autodoc Club. If it is too loud, that source associates it with a leaking hose, and RACE includes whistling from the engine area, together with loss of power, among the symptoms of a faulty turbo.[1][7]
What noises does a worn dual-mass flywheel make?
The sources cite a rattle or "clack-clack" and a metallic scraping, knocks when starting or switching off the engine and engine vibrations at idle. When it is badly deteriorated, the metallic noise can be heard when accelerating and the fault is serious, according to Autofácil.[3][4][9]
How much does it cost to replace the dual-mass flywheel?
Diariomotor puts the replacement at between €700 and €1,300 at an independent garage in Spain and close to €2,000 at official dealer services; Autofácil gives €1,000 to €2,000 depending on the model and RACE around €1,500 for a complete clutch kit on an average compact car. The first two figures date from 2020, so it is worth asking for a current quote.[3][4][9]
How can you tell a CV joint is failing?
RACE describes a shudder through the floor, the seat or the gear lever when accelerating hard or going over 80 km/h, and a "clack-clack" with the steering on full lock at low speed. Grease thrown outwards indicates that the boot has split.[6]
Other symptoms: noises
- Metallic timing noise on start-upUrgency: Garage soon65 faults cause it in 62 engines
- Deep metallic engine knockUrgency: As soon as possible37 faults cause it in 34 engines
- Turbo whistle or siren noiseUrgency: Garage soon45 faults cause it in 45 engines
- Gearbox or clutch noise or rattleUrgency: Monitor21 faults cause it in 20 engines
- Metallic hum or whine from the engine that rises with revsUrgency: Garage soon2 faults cause it in 2 engines
- Noise when starting the car (squeal, knock or clicking)Urgency: Garage soon40 faults cause it in 39 engines
Has this happened to you? Tell us which fault it was, at how many kilometres and how much you paid: it helps other owners know what to expect. Report your fault.
Sources
Every fact on this page links to its source. If you find an error, let us know.
- Ruido metálico en el coche durante la aceleración y el ralentíAutodoc Club · Technical documentation · published 20 August 2021 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- Razones por las que debes revisar tu sistema de escape — Cómo inspeccionar el sistema de escapeAutodoc Club · Technical documentation · published 28 May 2020 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- ¿Qué es el volante bimasa del coche y cómo influye en las vibraciones del motor?RACE · Motoring press · published 16 September 2026 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- ¿Qué síntomas nos dicen que tenemos un problema en el Volante Bimasa?Autofácil · Motoring press · published 5 March 2020 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- ¿Qué averías pueden provocar unos tacos del motor en mal estado?Diariomotor · Motoring press · published 18 January 2020 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- Junta homocinética rota: síntomas y ruidos del cocheRACE · Motoring press · published 29 September 2026 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- ¿Cuáles son los síntomas de un turbo roto o averiado?RACE · Motoring press · published 23 March 2023 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- Colector de escape: funciones, síntomas, parámetrosAutodoc Club · Technical documentation · published 8 October 2020 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- Volante bimasa: cómo saber si está averiado y cuánto cuesta sustituirloDiariomotor · Motoring press · published 3 November 2020 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- Sensor de detonación: todo lo que necesitas saber sobre sus partes, funcionamiento, tipos y averíasAutodoc Club · Technical documentation · published 22 March 2021 · consulted 4 October 2026 · in Spanish
- Kia / Hyundai 1.6 CRDi MHEV Engine FailuresDOHC (especialista en reconstrucción de motores) · Technical documentation · consulted 26 September 2026
- Typische Probleme & Haltbarkeit der MultitronicGebrauchtwagenberater · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in German
- Fallos del turbo 1.6 HDi: cómo evitar que tu motor muera de sedReman Motor Parts · Other source · published 14 August 2025 · consulted 26 September 2026 · in Spanish
- Fiabilité du 2.0 HDIFiches-Auto · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Fiat 500X : les plus et les moinsFiches-auto.fr · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Fiabilité Mazda CX-5 (2012-2017)Fiches-auto.fr · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Fiabilité et pannes Ford S-MaxFiches-auto.fr · Other source · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Hyundai i20 I: Typische Probleme & KrankheitenGebrauchtwagenberater · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in German
- Fiabilité Mazda 6 (2002-2008)Fiches-auto.fr · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Opel Zafira Tourer : fiabilité, pannes et rappelsFiches-auto.fr · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Fiabilité Opel Zafira - avis et pannes des propriétairesFiches-auto.fr · Owners' forum · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Essai, avis et fiabilité des 2,2 HDI 136 chevauxFiches-Auto · Motoring press · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Fiabilité et pannes du Ford Focus 2 (1.8 TDCi 115ch)Fiches-auto.fr · Owners' forum · consulted 27 September 2026 · in French
- Probleme & Schwachstellen beim DSGGebrauchtwagenberater · Technical documentation · published March 2023 · consulted 27 September 2026 · in German
- Common problems of Audi A3 8P 2.0 TFSIEuro Auto Pro · Technical documentation · consulted 5 October 2026
- Fiabilité Fiat Punto 2 (1999-2003) : pannes et témoignagesFiches-auto.fr · Other source · consulted 5 October 2026 · in French
- Fiabilité Mercedes CLA 2013-2019 (103 témoignages)fiches-auto.fr · Other source · consulted 5 October 2026 · in French
- Tous les problèmes sur Volvo C30 2006-2012 (162 témoignages)fiches-auto.fr · Other source · consulted 5 October 2026 · in French